Sunday, May 23, 2010

What percentage of peroxide to water do i use to erradicate stagnant water and root rot in my house plants?

I've copied and pasted this info from the link below.





H2O2 comes in several different strengths 3%, 5%, 8% and 35%, also sold as food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. The most economical is 35% which we recommend be diluted to three percent before using, as at this high concentration it can cause damage to skin and clothing. When working with food grade H2O2 it is very important that you clean up any spills or splashes immediately, it will damage almost anything very quickly. This is extra important with skin and clothing. Skin will be temporarily bleached pure white if not washed cleaned. Gloves are strongly recommended when working with any strong chemical.





Food grade H2O2 can be diluted to three percent by mixing it one part to eleven parts water (preferably distilled). The storage container should be opaque to prevent light from getting in and it must be able to hold some pressure. If three-liter pop bottles are available in your area they are ideal for mixing and storing H2O2. There are twelve quarter liters (250ml) in three liters, if you put in one quarter liter H2O2 and eleven quarter liters (250ml) water in the bottle it will full of three percent H2O2 and the bottle can hold the pressure that the H2O2 will generate. Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to three ml's per liter (2 1\2 tsp. Per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. Use every watering even on fresh cuttings. For hydroponics use every reservoir change and replace twenty-five percent (one quarter) every day. Example: In a 100L reservoir you would add three hundred ml's (3%) H2O2 when changing the nutrient. You would then add seventy-five ml's more every day.





Good luck!

What percentage of peroxide to water do i use to erradicate stagnant water and root rot in my house plants?
I think erradicating the source of the problem would be more beneficial than chancing the peroxide mixture.





Are they able to drain thoroughly without sitting in water? If you can, place the pot on gravel in a tray/saucer ABOVE the water line. Adding rocks to the inside of the pot won't help if it is sitting in water.





Is the potting soil compressed, old or have mineral salts forming on the soil or the sides of the pot?


Replace soil with a good quality, light weight mixture that holds moisture not water. Remove any roots that are black, broken/dead, break off easily as new healthy roots won't form from these anyway.





Take your plants outside into a shady area and keeping flushing the pot out several times if re-potting is not an option.





Change watering habits-how often should you water? Only when they need it. Not once a day-or week. Stick your little finger into the soil 1/2 inch; if soil particles stick to your finger, they don't need water yet.





If you fertilize-cut back the amount as fall approaches. Plants respond to the amount of light hours to dark hours and on their own slow down as winter approaches and take a "grow" break even though they are living pkants. They'll let you know when they are hungry again with new growth in spring.
Reply:I don't know about the peroxide but try this. You're pots have weep holes right? If not, make some. Set the pots in your sink or bathtub and keep filling them with water so it runs out the bottom several times. This will flush the soil. Next time you water use a weak fertilizer solution.





You might also want to repot with fresh soil if it doesn't improve.





Drainage is very important. Don't use pots without holes and a layer of pebbles on the bottom will help a lot too.
Reply:I've never had luck w/ that formula, either i burn them or it doesn't resolve I have always resoted to gently removing and salvaging what I can and repotting





of course i learned my lesson and repotted with a layer of gravel and sand on bottom to prevent it from happening again


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